Wednesday, May 15, 2013

People, culture and Italy!

We seem to keep running into older women at bus stops who start chatting us up, all very delightful. We have been cooking in most nights, but Saturday, we normally treat ourselves and go out for dinner. This past Saturday, as we got to the bus stop, an older woman was waiting there and we both said "bonsoir" to her. She then asked us which bus we were waiting for, and the conversation ( in french of course) started. She wanted to know how long we were in Nice, where we had been and where we were from. When we told her that we had visited St-Paul-de-Vence, she said......" Non, non...sait appeler seulement St-Paul" ( No, it is called St-Paul). She took offence that it was now referred to "de Vence" simply because it was a few kilometres from Vence. She felt that it was an insult. She had gone to school in St-Paul and said it was very wrong that the medieval town be part of another town. As the bus arrived, the conversation continued. She was on her way to the Opera house for a concert and told us she we would get off the bus at her stop, but in all honesty, we wanted to get off at the next stop! We simply couldn't insult her, and got off with her, and simply walked a bit further to the restaurant. On the way to the old town, she pointed out museums we should visit, famous monuments and the history of Nice. She even told us about local events taking place that we should attend. Who needs a tourist bureau, way better to hear it from locals! She then pointed out the large rusted iron pillar sculpture that must rise some 50 feet above the street near Promenade des Anglais. It was built for one of the city's anniversaries and she said she simply hated it, it was ugly and had no place there. She was certainly opiniated, but what a wonderful encounter!

Every weekend seems to be an event along the Promenade. Last weekend was a 24 hour foot race to raise money for the physically handicapped, and this past weekend, a display of older rally cars that had travelled from Holland.


We also went to the Le Marche de la Liberation, which is the largest food market in Nice and where the locals shop. It is further into the newer part of the city. Must have been over 200 vendors, all selling locally grown fruit and vegetables. Also fish, hardware, household goods and furniture sections in this market. Nice to get out of the touristy areas.
The lady on the bus told us about La Fete de Mai (spring festival) that was taking place every Sunday in May in the Cimiez quarter so we decided to go. The festival featured Nicios foods and traditional dancers, very interesting to see. Also had the opportunity to try pastis, an anise based liqueur (45% alcohol), which is diluted with water on a 1 to 5 ratio. Wouldn't run out and buy a bottle, but glad we tried it. Kept meaning to try it on previous trips to France, but didn't seem to manage.


Then visited the Matisse Museum, but unfortunately could only take pictures of the outside. Then back to "La Vielle Ville" for lunch, some wandering around, then off to the pub for a few drinks where we met Ken and watched part of a Formula One race. Velo Bleu back to the apartment; had to be very careful as so many people on the Promenade, the most we have seen. Great weather this past week, mainly sunny skies and nice breezes, so it doesn't get too hot.
While stopping for lunch the other day, someone had left the Nice Matin and Sunday magazine on one of the nearby tables so browsed through them. Carla Bruni (former First Lady of France) was on the cover, as she just released another album. Was wondering how long she would stay attached to Sarcozy now that he is "infamous" (under investigation for taking advantage of one of France's wealthiest older woman) and no longer famous! Does this make him any better than Berlosconi from Italy taking advantages of young women vs. old? What does Carla think?


Took the local bus to Villefranche sur Mer, a fishing port which is only 10 kms. from Nice. Had a lovely afternoon, walking through the old town and had lovely lunch (fresh fish) along the sea side. I finally tried grilled sardines, and they were very good; they are known for their sardines in the south of France. The one thing that was noticeable in this town, unlike the others we have visited, is that the houses in the old town were more colourfully painted. Some alleyways, said to be 13th century, are named "rue obscure" (dark street), which relates to the fact that you cannot see the end of the laneway as it winds down to the port; first time we have encountered this. The alleys were covered by vaulted arcades that are to this day inhabited. Another aspect of buildings in this part of France is that a lot of the side walls of the buildings are faux painted with pictures of windows, shutters and vines. Adds character to an otherwise blank wall. The waiter at the seaside restaurant was a very charming young 20 year old. When he brought my cappuccino, he showed me the heart he had made in the coffee foam. I said " Monsieur, je suis mariee"(I am married), to which he replied, " perhaps Monsieur would also like to be involved" ! Love the humour of the waiters. When you make the effort to engage them in a conversation, they definitely respond with humour. The waiter threw some left over bread in the ocean and the fish came up to nibble at it, and We were able to get a picture.

While having lunch, a 50ish old Senegalese black man came along the tables selling purses, belts, lighters, sunglasses, etc. Now, he had a sense of humour. Told me that I was quite tanned, but I had aways to go to catch up with him, and he started laughing. Sounds like a brother of mine who laughs at his own jokes! He had a little drum with two castanets attached to it, that he would flick to get people's attention.....he said it was his IPhone 5! A real salesman....he saw some French people behind us smoking, so he showed them how powerful his lighters were. Ripped some paper with his teeth (hands full of purses, etc) , then proceeded to light the paper on fire. Tells them the lighter will work in the strongest of winds! Not sure if they bought one.

On Tuesday, the 14th, we headed off early to go to San Remo, Italy to attend their local market. San Remo is 54 kms. From Nice. Took the train to Ventimiglia, Italy, which took about 45 minutes, then transferred to another train to San Remo, which took about 20 minutes. Had about an hour wait in Ventimiglia, so had a coffe/tea standing up at a coffe bar (now we know we are in Italy) and walked into the town to have a look around. Could see the Alps in the distance. The market in San Remo is the type of market where locals do their shopping for clothes, footwear, household goods, etc. quite a few tourists here as well. Lisa, our Daughter in Law, would have loved all the colourful purses. In addition to the stands at the market, lots of Senegalese walking around selling belts, sunglasses, purses, umbrellas.....oh, and yes, needle threaders! O.K. what's with that, doesn't strike me as a big seller, but they were everywhere. I sew and even I didn't buy one! Had great pasta for lunch. Had to have as we were in Italy. Another great day, and back home by 4 p.m.

News this morning that France is officially in a soft recession with President Francois Hollande celebrating his first year in office tomorrow....ouch! Wouldn't want to be in his shoes.
La Liberation market in the Cimiez quarter of Nice
The tram which runs through parts of Nice, we have taken this mode of transport as well as buses, trains, etc
Traditionally dressed Nicoise women
The Matisse museum in Nice
Claire in Villefranche sur Mer
The cove in Villefranche
One of the fountains in the old town of Villefranche
A rue obscure in Villefranche
Fish eating bread...after all they are French fish!
A Senagalese salesman
A funky Westfallia in Villefranche
The colourful homes in Villefranche
Ventimiglia, Italy
San Remo, Italy
Market in San Remo

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