Saturday, May 11, 2013

Castle Hill, Nice and St-Paul-de-Vence

 

One of the most popular sites in Nice is Castle Hill, which is located just above the Old Town. There was a fortress here at one time, but it was destroyed by Napoleon as he was concerned that it would fall into enemy hands. There are old foundations of a church, but today it has been refurbished into gardens, play areas for children and a rocky cascade with water flowing down the hill. Great panorama of the City of Nice. We also took the time to visit the cemetery. One section of the cemetery is the Jewish area which has a memorial to the Jewish people that were killed in Auschwitz, very moving. As we were starting our walk back down the hill, the noon cannon went off.....sure scared us being so close!

We have been delighted when talking to locals and tourists alike. The majority of people have been so friendly and it is always nice to get their opinion or suggestions on what to visit, where to eat, etc. At the pub one of the British ex-pats told us we must visit the market in Venti Miglia, Italy ( just across the border) which takes place on Fridays. Conversely on the train last week, we met a couple from England who told us not to bother with that market as the goods were very cheaply made. They told us to go to San Remo, which we may decide to do instead.

Standing at the bus stop waiting to go to St-Paul, an older French lady told me she liked my hair and did I have it cut locally? (This is taking place in French, of course; and although Robin can understand somewhat, I stop to translate occasionally). When I said "no", I asked her if she knew of a good hairdresser. She waved her arms up as she told me she had tried hundreds of hairdressers here in Nice and close by, but has never been satisfied! Lots of hand waving and facial expressions such as raised eyebrows, moues....they are so full of expression, love it! Robin said I would look like this woman when I grew older, as I had her same colouring and body shape...not bad! She still had lots of life in her and a good sense of humour and in good shape. She was well dressed and still wearing high heels, think she was about 80. When we told her where we were going, she told us St-Paul was a beautiful town, full of artists and to be careful on the cobbled streets...must be a mother.


Although St-Paul-de-Vence is only 11 kms. from Nice, took about an hour as the bus stops in several towns along the way. As the bus winds it's way up the hill, the town can be seen against the skyline with its fortified walls. It is known as an artist community.


Got off the bus just out of the town to visit the Foundation Maeght, which is a unique site set on a wooded cliff above the medieval town. It is a small modern art museum and in addition to the art in the building itself, there are numerous pieces throughout the gardens. The entire back garden has sculptures of Miro, who we really like. Also works by Marc Chagall (a Chagall museum here in Nice which we have yet to visit), Calder, Braque, Giacometti and many more. Such an interesting place for this gallery.
Then a 10 minute walk to the town of St-Paul and what a beautiful little town. Sat in the local square for lunch and watched some of the older gentlemen playing pétanque next door. Strolled through the "medieval section" which has very narrow lanes and many shops filled with art and goods from the area. A real magical little place. Back to Nice around 4 p.m.; can't believe how quickly the days pass by.
In one of the small shops we spoke to a young lady there who said my French was very good. She said she just knew a little English, but she managed well. She said most tourists tried a little French, with exception of the Germans. She would tell them, in French and English, that she couldn't speak or understand German. They in turn would continue to speak German, make no effort to try even a simple, "bonjour or merci", but just speak louder!


Ran across our first "rude" waiter in St -Paul de Vence. I think at one time it was thought that a lot of the french were rude, simply not the case, with the exception of this one guy. When I told the waiter we wanted to share a salad, he said " non" ....not big enough, wouldn't bring another plate, but he would bring me an extra fork; which was said with sarcasm. Then ordered a "pressions brune" (dark draft beer) for Robin, said "non"... they don't have, only bottles. Think he was in a bad mood......lot's of German tourists in town (did I say that out loud?). Not sure if that was the reason!


It has been interesting when we come across some shopkeepers. I always speak French, but at times, they insist on speaking English, as they want to practice. So half the conversation is In English and I respond in French.

Marina on the east side of Nice
The first picture of us together
The path to the cemetery on Castle Hill in Nice
The cemetery in Nice
Claire pointing to Place Sainte Claire
The local buses, always very clean
A Miro sculpture at Foundation Maeght in St-Paul -de-Vence
An Andrew Calder sculpture
Miro
The gardens at the art gallery
Who is the monkey?
Robin in the gardens
This sculpture was always moving due to the water going through it...fascinating
Taking a break at the art gallery
Pétanque balls
A pétanque paying area just below the ancient walls of the medieval town
Claire in St-Paul-de-Vence
One of the many colourful art galleries in St Paul
The beautiful narrow lanes of St-Paul
Love this one!
Storm clouds moving in over the mountains, but it just rained for a few minutes
The cemetery in Nice...a little out of order
Looking up to the medieval town of St-Paul-de-Vence

 

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