LE SUD DE FRANCE - MAY/JUNE - 2013: Nice - first impressions & activities

Arrived at our apartment in Nice on May 1st, after a 5 hour trip on the TGV (train de grand vitesse - high speed train). We were met at the apartment by a local Frenchman, Christophe to show us around the apartment and how things work. Those who have rented homes in Europe will know that appliances here are very different from those in North America; so one has to pay special attention when getting instructions. For example, this clothes washing machine takes 1 1/2 hours to do one load, and it doesn't even dry the clothes. We have a drying rack on the balcony. Our apartment is very comfortable, modern, clean, freshly painted, bright and well appointed, with everything that we need. A small balcony that we have enjoyed throughout the day.

As in most of Europe there are electric shutters on the windows, which most people put down when they are leaving their apartments for security and to keep the sunlight out. We went grocery shopping right after looking around to see what supplies were in the apartment. Only one small store opened as it was May 1st, France's labour day.

Got back and decided to take a walk along the boardwalk, which is called Promenade des Anglais. Went to close the shutters and the bedroom shutter closed, but not the main shutter. The conversation goes... "Weren't we paying attention when Christophe told us what to do? OMG, hope we haven't broken the thing after only one hour here. Let's go outside and see if we can manually bring it down...nothing! Oh well, let's not force it? Can't believe this.....we are smart people, aren't we? Let's leave it, not force it and call Christophe tomorrow morning." So next morning we call and he says....oh, forgot to tell you, the front room shutter is not working. What a relief, we aren't dumb after all!

The Promenade des Angais is a paved pathway that runs all along the City of Nice, probably 5 to 7 kms. Lots of people walking, rollerblading and cycling. A separate pathway for the bikes and blades. It takes us 40 minutes to walk into the old town, " la vielle ville". It is so wonderful to be back in Europe and to enjoy the laid back lifestyle. Walk, stop for coffee/tea and a pain au chocolate and simply watch life going on around you.

While on the Promenade, we noticed some markings on the cement, with the wording Stade de Pilou. So curious about it, but no one around to ask. Good old YouTube. An ancient game played in France for centuries. They have an old coin which had a hole in the centre, then they attach feathers to it. A game played by two teams of two people, but not sure how the scoring system works. Basically hacky sack.

During our first full day here in Nice, we walked to the city centre, then found the locations for both La Ligne D'Azur, the local bus line and Velo Bleu, the bicycle rental system. Bought 10 bus passes each for 10 Euro p.p. and bicycle rental privileges for the month for 10 Euro each as well. The way the bike system works is that the first 30 minutes are free and each hour beyond that costs 1 Euro per hour. There are 175 stations around town and 1,750 bikes. When we went to buy the velo pass, I asked the lady if she spoke english, so Robin could understnd, quite curtly, she said no. I then reverted to french, complimented her on her beautiful nails, which were laquered gold, then all of a sudden, dealing with a very friendly woman, who gave us a demonstration of the use of the bikes and a few secrets. Don't use the bike locks as the thieves have now figured put how to manage overiding the lock system and they are stealing the bikes. Also, if we are riding the bikes around town more than 30 minutes, check them in prior to the 30 minutes at one of the many stations, then check out another bike; then you are taking advantage of the 30 free minutes policy. nice to know, but we really can't be bothered. We have been avid users. Walk into the old town, spend a few hours there, then head back on bikes, which takes 20 minutes and costs nothing as is within the free time frame, although we have been on longer bike rides.

We get such a kick out of the rules of the restaurants. Having commented on the laid back lifestyle, when it comes to bars, restaurants and coffee bars, but they all seem to have some rules. You can only sit on a certain side if orderings drinks/coffee. If you are having a meal, then you are entitled to a better seat. Cannot order something to eat before noon....so, you just go with the flow. If we can't order lunch at 11:45a.m., guess we will have to order a glass of wine!

On our second morning here, I noticed some water on the kitchen floor, the water tank had a slow leak. We are told that the water in France is very hard and has lots of calcium in it and that water tanks are usually replaced after 5 years. Called our contact and he came over and had called the local handy man who lives in our same building and is a semi retired Welshman. They tightened the bottom of the tank which sits on a pedestal, then arranged to replace the tank the next day, which they did. One of the many things that can happen when you rent an apartment vs. renting a hotel room, but so much better having you own "home". Ken has a wonderful sense of humour and we have arranged to go to his local pub in the port on Sunday to watch a football (soccer) match. He is divorced twice over and says he has no intentions of getting re-married. He says he has lots of young girls here to date....he is 63. Left his last wife as she wouldn't retire here in Nice. Wanted to stay with her family in Wales.....go figure!

Seems every second day the street cleaning machines are out in front of our apartment, cleaning/ washing the streets. Nice is very clean. Another thing we have noticed, which will be of interest to our dog loving friends and family, is that the Jack Russell breed seems to be the most popular here in Nice....all very cute.

The day the hot water tank was being replaced, seemed to be a good time to visit one of the surrounding towns and disappear for most of the day. We caught an early bus, transferred at the port and visited Saint Jean Cap Ferrat. Only 10 km. from Nice, but on a very windy road along the coast with great views of the various harbours. Did a walk along the Chemin de Lido and the Chemin de la Carriere, about 9 km. in total. Walked around the town, then stopped for our first feast of "moules et frites" ( mussels and fries). Yummers! What more can you ask for, fresh mussels and lots of them along with sitting on a deck watching the going-ones in the harbour. Great day! Back to Nice and then bikes back to apartment. We will go back as we still want to visit the Rothschild villa.

Went to the local market in Nice, which takes place every morning. Food vendors are there till around noon, but several of the flower markets stay open all day. The flowers are absolutely beautiful. We have bought fresh vegetables, meat and herbs here. Also bought some fresh olives and tapenade. Would like to buy some fresh fish one morning, just have to get over the fact that they still have their heads on.....think if I ask politely, they will take the head off for me.

On Saturday night we took the bus into town and ate at La Tapenade, a small restaurant tucked into one of the very small side streets of the old town. Started off with a salad, which had 3 small phyllo pastry bundles filled with chèvre (goat cheese) and apple and the salad also had bacon strips. We shared this appetizer and very thankful that we did. This restaurant's portions were very large, which came as a surprise, considering portions here in France usually tend to be on the smaller size. Robin had Magret de Canard (duck breast) in a cranberry sauce and I had Lapin (rabbit) in a onion/olive sauce. Everything was delicious, hope the readers aren't salivating too much! Thanks to our son Rich and daughter in law, Lisa for a great recommendation. Decided to take the bus back home due to the late hour. Fewer buses at night and ours was packed, took a circuitous route and was accompanied by a car in front of the bus, which had two security police in it. Needless to say, kept my purse close at hand. We have been warned several times of pick pockets in the busy areas, train station and buses.

Spent the afternoon on the beach. Not sure how much reading Robin did; as there was a young woman going topless nearby! Great weather so far, low 20's. Petrol is about $2.50 per litre Canadian and constant line ups at the gas stations. Would not want to have a car here as lots of traffic and hard to find parking spots; and in any event not necessary with the great bus/train system.

At the restaurant last night, a Japanese couple arrived shortly after us and sat at a table, just a few steps from ours. The lady got up to get them menus, not sure why she didn't wait for service. Robin comments...." She isn't wearing a ring, and considering she went to get the menus, must be his Geisha....I wonder if she has an "obi" ( a sash worn by geishas, love the fact that he is using the words he has learnt while doing crosswords). O.K, my husband has been hanging around our Sister in Law, Brenda too much, something she would comment on! I couldn't stop laughing.